Forum Title: Removing Metal Buck in Window
I have a basement window with a rusting metal buck. The metal buck is rusted badly on the inside bottom to the extend that the rust has split the metal. On the outside, the metal buck is starting to separate from concrete and rusting in places. I would like to take the metal buck out before replacing the window. Every window company I have talked to dont want to replace the metal frame. Some have suggested removing the rusted part of the frame only. But it seems the frame is beyond repair. Where do I start? I am in the doghouse w/ my wife on this one. Help. ps: I am in the Chicago area, if you know of anyone who can help me, I'd welcome any recommendation.
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: LORRAINE DAY (Des Plaines, IL), 01/09/2019

No storm windows for the winter/cold months? They could help greatly. You could carefully remove the inside trim around the window and see if there is access to the area between the window and the framing. - If there is a space, get a can or two of foam ( few bucks) made for windows and doors and fill the void between the framing and the window. If there is fiberglass in the void, get rid of the junk before foaming. Trim off the excess foam and replace the trim you saved. Dick

- DARLENE REID (Lynwood, CA), 02/26/2019

XSleeper: * Would cutting w/ a torch damage the underlying concrete? This sounds like the quickest method. If using a torch, would you still recommend making four cuts (on on each side) or cutting all around the metal frame - perhaps one continuous cut on all four sides. * There is already a stop on all four sides. The metal buck is covering the stop. I dont think the stop is a hollow one made from the metal buck only. I don't know what shape the concrete is in under the stop. Also, the stop does not go all the way to the outer edge. * What if the stop is not there and the window is framed w/ a 8 wide 1 thick treated wood? What is the best way to seal the window/wooden buck/concrete joins from the outside? * Where should the top kerf be made - on the vertical outside surface at the top of the window or on the horizontal outside surface on the top ledge of the window? I am not able to picture your suggestion on the kerf. A link to any picture that may dummy it down for me? Thanks Vik

- CURTIS CHAPMAN (Livonia, MI), 02/23/2019

Last time I checked, concrete doesn't burn. But it will surely discolor it. And if the concrete is wet, it certainly could pop when you heat it. I would still recommend cutting each side.... four 8 cuts versus.... the entire perimeter of the window??? You may even find that if the steel is tight that you will need to make 2 cuts per side to completely remove a portion. My reason for mentioning adding a stop is that the concrete you will be left with (once the rusty jamb is removed) is probably not going to be pleasing to the eye, and you will likely want to cover it up. But maybe I will be wrong and you will just be able to paint the concrete and it will look fine. IF you need to add some trim (jamb/stop) in order to cover the concrete, I am saying that added trim would probably need to extend to the outer edge of the concrete where it would meet a piece of face trim, to completely cover the area that was formerly covered by rusty steel. I doubt there is any wood there. If there was, you would see it on the inside. The kerf is a cut that is made into the exterior surface of the wall above the trim. Picture adding a 1x4 trim on the face of the wall above the window. What is going to keep water from running behind that trim? If you cut a kerf into the wall (and rather than cutting it straight in, angle the cut upward, like a roof is angled upward) then you will have a slot that you can insert a piece of flashing into, and the top of the flashing will angle downward so that it sheds water. Then caulk the flashing in with a concrete sealant so that water can't get behind it.

- JORGE PEARSON (Hollywood, FL), 03/07/2019

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